http://www.iwoodwork.net/index.htmlThoughts about WoodWorking, the Podcast, and What All...enmark@iwoodwork.netCopyright 2009 Mark Sterner2011-02-24T13:05:31-05:00 hourly 1 2000-01-01T12:00+00:00 Thu, 24 Feb 2011 15:19:02 -0500mark@iwoodwork.netNone2011-02-24T13:05:31-05:00http://www.iwoodwork.net/Blog/files/48ebcd45c215a4d89c316da0bd0f5904-14.html#unique-entry-id-14http://www.iwoodwork.net/Blog/files/48ebcd45c215a4d89c316da0bd0f5904-14.html#unique-entry-id-14iWW08 Show Notes


Notes for Episode 16 - Changing Out a Bandsaw Blade

After the long absence, we're back with more episodes of the iWoodWork Podcast.

• Life is good, I'm working at Marc Adams School of Woodworking full time, only thing I need is...more time.
• Big Congrats to Wes our behind the scenes editor and cameraman extraordinaire.

• • He and his wife are now officially parents! Congratulations are definitely in order.

In this episode, we look at how to set up a bandsaw with a new blade. In this case, I’m setting up the bandsaw to resaw some lumber.

• Along the way we’ll look at all the parts of the bandsaw
• Then we will change the blade and adjust all those parts

Parts of a Bandsaw

• On the Back of the Upper Housing

• • Tension Control - A sliding bracket, containing a spring, provides tension to the saw blade by rising or lowering the bracket. The box connects through the Upper Housing to the shaft of the Upper Wheel

• • • Tension on the spring is controllable, More tension is needed for larger blades
• • • Note: Don’t leave tension on your bandsaw. Can affect the shape of the bandsaw tires

• • Tracking Control - A wing nut allows me to change the angle of the upper bandsaw wheel

• • • It allows me to control where the blade rides on the upper wheel.
• • • You center the blade on the wheel otherwise it will try and run forward or run backward. If it’s really far off, it will jump off the wheel

• • • • Podcast goof - it sounds like I’m suggesting the blade can waver back and forth - NO. It’s one or the other

• • Quick Tension Release

• • • An option on many bandsaws. Quickly releases tension without having to change your setting on the spring

• The Top Wheel

• • Has a urethane tire which the saw blade rides over

• The Guides

• • Blade guard - always unplug saw when guard is off or doors are open
• • Guide Post - raises and lowers to accommodate the thickness of your stock
• • Thrust Bearing - located to the back of the blade, prevents the blade from backing up when cutting pressure is applied
• • Guide Blocks - prevents the blade from twisting or racking too much while cutting

• • • There are Guide Blocks and a Thrust bearing for the Bottom Wheel as well

• The Bottom Wheel

• • Similar to Top Wheel, except it’s position is fixed, doesn’t float under tension, connected to the driveshaft

• Table and Trunions

• • Knobs on the trunions allow the table to be set at an angle
• • Throat Plate - sacrificial disc of wood, metal or plastic, surrounds the blade

Changing Out the Blade

• Remove Tension on Blade
• Remove Blade

• • Remove the Table Pin, Walk the blade through the slot in the table

• Back the Thrust Bearings and Guide Blocks away from the path of the new blade (upper and lower)
• Put on new blade - I’m putting on a 1/2" 3TPI bandsaw blade

• • "Teeth pointing down" goes a long way towards not feeling like an idiot ;-)
• • Centered on the tires

• Put light tension on the saw blade
• Slowly rotate the upper wheel and adjust the Tracking Control until the blade is riding centered on the tires

• • As you dial in, speed up the rotation - magnifies any drift
• • Tune position so that the teeth on the blade ride just forward of the crown (high-point) on the tires It’s the solid steel portion of the blade that you want centered
• • When the blade stays seated in the center position at during faster revolutions, it’s dialed in

• Position the Thrust Bearings - move bearing forward

• • Want only occasional blade contact with the bearing

• Reinstall Guide Blocks

• • Not in contact with the blade

• • • Think a dollar bill’s thickness away

• Position Guide Blocks - move them forward until the forward edge is at the bottom of the gullet in the blade

• • "Teeth not Eating the Blocks" goes a long way towards not feeling like an idiot ;-)

• Listen to the sounds a bandsaw makes as you are tuning it.
• Make sure all set screws are snugged down

• • Don’t forget to check below the table

• Retension Blade

• • Spring Scale is very rough estimate
• • It’s more about the sound of the bandsaw and ultimately, the quality of the cut

• Replace Guards and Table Pin
• Check that the Table is square to the blade
• Please: Make any necessary tweeks only under human power, not motor power!
• When you are satisfied, give it power.

• • You should be hearing a nice rhythmic hiss

Square the Bandsaw Fence to the Drift of the Blade

• Verify / Measure Drift

• • Freehand cut a board part way along a line that is parallel to the edge of the board
• • Draw a line on the table down the edge of the edge of the board
• • Line the Bandsaw Fence up along the line drawn on the Table

• • • If the fence is parallel, you are done
• • • If it isn’t parallel, adjust the fence according to your user manual

Next time...Resawing Thick Lumber to Create Matching Panels!

]]>mark@iwoodwork.netNone2009-12-10T16:08:57-05:00http://www.iwoodwork.net/Blog/files/4a3b0ee0dc31cd42dd8ae6038d8f308c-13.html#unique-entry-id-13http://www.iwoodwork.net/Blog/files/4a3b0ee0dc31cd42dd8ae6038d8f308c-13.html#unique-entry-id-13Show Notes
iWW07c

Fitting the Tenon to the Mortise

Fitting the tenon to the mortise, when the mortise is cut with a router

• Rounded ends from the plunged router bit (mortise) do not fit square ends from the router table...

To fit the Tenon

• Take P100 grit sandpaper from a belt sander belt - or any sanding abrasive on a cloth backing
• Bend the radius and apply pressure right on the point of each edge
• Use a back and forth motion to relieve the corners

• • Will quickly take down the square corners
• • Dont let sandpaper edge actually contact the shoulder of the joint or you will cut a groove that will show
• • Apply equal pressure
• • Don't sand past the point the "flat" disappears at the top of the radius

• • • if you do, you are shortening your tenon...

• Check your fit (at the top of the tenon against the mortise - correct any drift immediately)

• • Keep flipping your piece and rounding your tenons on both ends - keep everything even, in line and square...

• To clean up the "square wings" at the bottom of the tenon (where it meets the shoulder)

• • Bench chisel and a simple paring action quickly extends "rounding" to the bottom of the tenon
• • Safety Note: when cutting of the parings - chisels is pointed towards me. At that point I'm concentrating primarily on that chisel edge

• • • a saferway to do it is flip the piece around in the vise and cut away from your body. It's speed vs. safety. I'm comfortable with this, if you're not by all means flip it...

• Do a final sand (or even a final kiss at the router table)

Seat the Joint

• Not too tight - want a friction fit

]]>mark@iwoodwork.netNone2009-11-28T13:01:40-05:00http://www.iwoodwork.net/Blog/files/2eb03aa0ab9400aa0df043130491cb06-12.html#unique-entry-id-12http://www.iwoodwork.net/Blog/files/2eb03aa0ab9400aa0df043130491cb06-12.html#unique-entry-id-12Show Notes
iWW07b

Mortise & Tenon

• Been around since before Egypt

• • Occurred in China - Neolithic age

• Most Common Use: Allow an horizontal member to "join" with a vertical member

• • Mechanical strength
• • Glue surface

The Router Table

• Thumbs Up for JessEm Router Table - very pleased with the table
• Precise adjustments are possible
• Features of the Jess-Em Router Table

• • Scales on sides of table - allows for precise movement of fence with respect to router bit
• • Mast-R-Fence

• • • Doesn't change w humidity
• • • Easy to adjust around bit - Easy zero clearance
• • • Jigs for holds and stops

• • Rout-R-Lift

• • • Allows you to adjust router height by 1/512th of an inch!

• • Mite-R-Slide

• • • Really great action - makes for smooth tenon cheeks

Layout your mortise and tenon = Math Skills (Oh No!)

• Sticky Notes rock!!
• Do the long hand math
• Use a calculator - Does fractional inches

Set Up the Router Table

• Zero the working planes
• Zero the fence against the router bit
• Line up the faces of the front and back 1/2 fences
• Dust collection also provides filtration of finest dust

A Note about the Math in this Episode

• I'm demonstrating that it is possible to make very precisely located precisely sized tenons on the router table
• This is especially useful when working with a project where the design forces "unique" dimensions on you
• Usually, your dimension math will be much simpler...Don't get hung up on it in this show...
• I'm just showing that it's possible.

Cutting Tenons on the Router Table

• Raise bit to final height in stepwise fashion - not all at once
• Attach backer board to miter fence
• Safety - Wear hearing protection - the router is loud... I SAID THE ROUTER IS LOUD...
• Smooth Passes, Nice and easy

Steps to Easy, Precise Tenons

• Make 1st cut on all 4 faces - Define the shoulders of the tenon and length of tenon
• Raise the bit - Lift makes this easy
• Repeat the cut and raise the bit until you approach the final dimensions
• Check against actual mortise - don't rely on numbers only - Seeing is believing
• Bring bit up to final height and make the final pass

Check Back in a Week for the Final Installement: Final Fit the Mortise and Tenon!!

]]>mark@iwoodwork.netNone2009-11-23T08:38:11-05:00http://www.iwoodwork.net/Blog/files/3bb598da1712ea7e4fcc771283577232-11.html#unique-entry-id-11http://www.iwoodwork.net/Blog/files/3bb598da1712ea7e4fcc771283577232-11.html#unique-entry-id-11Hi Everyone,

Just wanted to check in with you all and tell you about some of the exciting news that's happening here at the iWoodWork Network.

First off, the next podcast is almost ready for release!

Why did it take us so long? A lot of new stuff has happened recently and it all kind of hit at once. The good news is that all of the new stuff is going to mean nothing but more good things for the podcast.

Ten weeks ago, I was approached by Marc Adams - of the Marc Adams School of WoodWorking fame - with a proposal that I become his "internet guy" for the school. Nothing could have pleased me more than the opportunity to contribute to the school that has been my main source of woodworking information and education for the last 12 years! I'll be at the school regularly, shooting video, taking pictures, blogging, and reporting on all the woodworking fun that happens at Marc's place. It wil all be posted at Marc's new website at http://marcadams.com. I'm proud to say I also had a hand in the re-design of his new website. So if you haven't visited the school's site recently, give it a look over and let us know what you think.

Now normally adding another job to my plate would be a bad thing for the podcast, but this opportunity allowed me to to quit a part time job with Apple retail so that I could focus full time on nothing but woodworking! Once the rush for registration for the 2010 year classes are completed, I forsee dedicating a lot more energy into the podcast. We'll also be upgrading some equiptment to continue to improve the overall quality. And most important, we will be sticking to monthly releases of relatively large show (30min or more), but now we will also be producing a number of shorts - to answer those people who want to see even more of my ugly mug!

Another positive step for the podcast is that Marc has decided to help sponsor us by generously allowing us to sell his DVD Training Series through the iWoodWork website. A portion of the proceeds of every sale will be contributed back to iWoodWork, so that we can pay our expenses and improve our show. If you are looking for more great woodworking education, Marc's DVD's are a valuable resource that are a great addition to our podcast content. Visit us at iwoodwork.net/store and make your order soon! The store will be operational by the time you see the next epidsode of the podcast.

Well, that's about it for now. I've got a lot more coming down the pike. Can't wait to share it all with you.

Until then, Make More Sawdust!

Mark]]>mark@iwoodwork.netNone2009-08-15T15:18:12-04:00http://www.iwoodwork.net/Blog/files/164390583680046a3b2539d86cb5d052-8.html#unique-entry-id-8http://www.iwoodwork.net/Blog/files/164390583680046a3b2539d86cb5d052-8.html#unique-entry-id-8Show Notes
iWW07

Meet the Mortise

Introduction: Mortise & Tenon Joint

Purpose of M&T

• Join an endgrain member to a long grain member

• • example - joining a horizontal board to a vertical board - as in a door or the frame for a panel

• Create a long lasting joint that survives dimensional stresses of many seasons
• A joint that does not rely solely on glue, provides mechanical support

Definitions

• Mortise - a “pocket” cut into the board to receive the tenon
• Tenon - a “stub” or “tongue” cut to the precise dimensions of the mortise

Method

• Using the plunge router with a shop made jig

Why this method? (There are at least 6 others that come to mind)

• Good method for those inexperienced with hand tools
• Allow for precise results
• Quick learning curve

Introduction to the Shop made Base Plate Jig

Right Click on Link below to download a .pdf of the jig I discuss...
Router Plate Jig Layout

Introduction to the Plunge Router

Note: I made a mistake - Routers spin up to around 22,000 RPMs, not 2200 RPM’s....Duh!!!

Router Safety and Proper Set Up

• Placing the bit properly in the collet is very important

• • Don’t overtighten or treat collet roughly

Layout the Mortise

• Pencils are no good for accurate layout
• Use a knife edge to draw the lines

• • respect the bevel angle of the knife when you cut to insure the bevel rides the square

Cut the Mortise

• Line up with Left side of Mortise (leave 1/4” from the knife line)
• Motion of cut must be either straight up and down or 90 degrees to the right
• All motions must be smooth (not rushed)
• Hog out waste with multiple smooth cuts
• Think safety

• • eye protection
• • hearing protection

• Final pass is the pass that defines the left and right ends of the mortise

• • Climb Cutting the left edge of the mortise

• • • Climb cutting is moving the router in the direction the bit is spinning
• • • Extended Climb Cutting will cause the router to try and “take off” so always use sparingly and be ready for vibration and a feeling the router wants to pull away

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